Mapping the Sheltowee

[Flying Eagle]

Two years ago was my introduction to BSF when, after rereading an article I have cut out of the newspaper over 15 years ago about BSF, my wife and I spent four days of day hikes to falls, arches, and along the BSF. Well, that wasn't enough. To celebrate 60 in 2008, I have a north to south hike planned out which generally follows this route with side trips for falls, overlooks etc.: Sheltowee Trace from US27 to Yahoo Falls to Yamacraw Bridge, Kentuchy trail to Ledbetter to No Business Creek, John Muir Trail to Station Camp Crossing to Grand Gap loop, Fall Branch Trail to John Litton Farm Loop to Bandy Creek Visitor Center to meet my wife and together hike the Honey Creek Loop. I have the National Geographic Trails Illustrated, Hiking the Big South Fork(Deaver, Smith & Duncan), Exploring Big South Fork River and Recreation Area (Campbell & Campbell), have read all the journals and "other trails" links on trail web sites and have read every entry on this site. I have long distance trail experience on the AT and in Alaska and have hiked in rain, blinding snow, sleet, and heat. I'm ready except for one question: In your humble opinion, when is the best time to hike this area? Living in Michigan puts me at a bit of a weather/season knowledge disadvantage. Thanks for any help you might offer. I plan to submit a hike journal when the journey is complete.

[I.B.Me]

If you can handle the cold, then winter will afford you the best views. When the leaves are gone the trail takes on a new unfamiliar look. We took a scout troop from Pickett to Great Meadows this weekend and it was great.

On the other hand in the warmer weather you can swim in the creeks and shower in the falls. Not everyone can say they have used a waterfall for a shower. I also tend to linger more in the summer. In the winter I tend to keep moveing to stay warm.

So when is the best time to hike BSF? Anytime you can.

[Flying Eagle]

What about the tick situation in warm weather? When does it kick in there? Thanks for the reply

[rootman]

I'm not sure about the emergence of the ticks -- probably best to call the park. I can personally attest to their presence.

Your trip is identical to the route we took over two backpacking trips this year, except that we turned west at Station Camp Creek and followed the SCC trail to Charit Creek Lodge, then out to Pickett State Park. The first leg was March 30-April 1, Hwy 27 -- Yamacraw -- Kentucky Trail -- to the tipple at Blue Heron. High temperatures were in the mid to low 70s. Had a little rain but not enough to discourage us. The second leg was October 1-5, Blue Heron -- Kentucky Trail -- John Muir Trail -- Station Camp Creek trail to Charit Creek Lodge -- out via Slave Falls Trail. High temperatures were in the low 80s but it wasn't uncomfortable because the trail is largely shaded and I backpacked in shorts and a sleeveless t-shirt. Weather was great. We had a drought this year so many of the side streams were dry in the fall. There was a little flow (10-15cfs at Leatherwood)in the BSF river, however, and water was not the problem I thought it might be.

Either time of year would be a good time to go. We came upon a wild boar and four little ones on the John Muir Trail during the fall trip. If I was forced to choose a time I would probably go in the fall. I've never backpacked there in the summer or winter.

The Trails Illustrated map and the "Hiking the BSF" book have been my main guides. Seems like I'm always going backwards on their trail descriptions so it takes some mental gymnastics on my part to stay oriented!

If you wish, I can send more info on trail conditions as we found them, some GPS points of our campsites and other landmarks, and some photos. If you can get in a night or two at Charit Creek Lodge (charitcreek.org)and/or Barthell Coal Camp (barthellcoalcamp.com) I don't think you would regret it.

My backpacking buddy is 67 and I'm 58 so it looks like the geezer-jocks are leaving their mark on BSF. It's a wonderful place!

[rootman]

When we started the trail last spring from Hwy 27 we were taken by the shuttle (Sheltowee Trace Outfitters) to a road that paralleled Hwy 27 and drove north on it a short way. The trailhead was not well marked so look for the trail markers on the trees on the left. There might be an entry point right on Hwy 27 but I have never used it. We left our car at Cumberland Falls (register it at the lodge), where we were picked up by ST Outfitters for the shuttle, which cost about $25. Our wives got the car when they came down a couple of days later. The trail from Hwy 27 to the BSF river is not heavily used. We got off it once but backtracked and found the trail marker.

The trail along the river all the way to Yamacraw is popular so it is well established and flat. We camped the first night just before the trail to Yahoo Falls. It was near a trail intersection, with a creek nearby and a large rock overhang that we used to get out of the rain. If you are a geocacher (see www.geocaching.com) there is also a geocache nearby.

Alum Ford has fixed campsites and some toilets. There is a small fee to stay there. Farther down the trail is a shelter at 36*44.800N, 084*32.573W. It is about 50 yards off the trail, on the river side, with a nice view of the river. We camped the second night about a half mile from Yamacraw. The campsites are flat and right on the river. There is also a road leading to the area so the local folks might also be using it.

The book makes the fording of Rock Creek sound like it could potentially be dangerous at higher water but when we crossed it the water was only a little above our ankles. Shortly after crossing the creek the Kentucky Trail leaves the Sheltowee Trace and starts a steep climb up to a ridge. The first thing you might notice is that the trail is obviously not as heavily used as the Sheltowee Trace. It is overgrown but still easy to follow. We walked along Wilson Ridge Road all the way to Nancy Graves School site, which is just off the road and easy to find. The trail continues on to the Blue Heron Tipple, where we ended our spring hike and spent the night at Barthell Coal Camp with our spouses.

In the fall we crossed over the river at the tipple and got right on the trail again. There was a drought so many of the side streams were dry, as was Dick Gap Falls. There are not many good camp sites along this section of the trail. We camped at 36*39.467N, 084*32.127W. It required a bushwack down a steep slope and access to the river was tricky. Our second night was at 36*37.376N, 084*35.314W, a sandy site right on the river. I was concerned about water on this trip but the Leatherwood Ford gauge (http://waterdata.usgs.gov/tn/nwis/uv/?site_no=03410210&PARAmeter_cd=00065,00060) was at about 10-15cfs and there was a nice, little flow on the BSF. Water was not a problem.

On the third day we came to some switchbacks just before the bridge over Difficulty Creek. There are some blown down trees over the trail and we must have zigged when we should have zagged because we ended up wandering around in the woods. We had GPS, maps and compass, however, so we found the bridge in about 15 minutes. It was the first time I had unintentionally been off a trail and a little disoriented.

As the book mentions, the No Business Trail east to Big Island is much flatter than the Muir Trail, which involves a very steep climb. I’ve done both and I recommend the former. The trail along the river parallels the horse trail and is located just west of it, away from the river. Hikers apparently stay primarily on the horse trail because the Muir trail is overgrown. We camped at 36*33.762N, 084*39.971W. This is a well established campsite that is large, flat, located beside the trail, has a fire ring, and has easy access to the river. The next day we walked the Muir trail and, just after crossing the bridge over Parch Corn Creek, saw a wild boar and four little ones.

At Station Camp Creek we followed the creek west to Charit Creek Lodge (36*32.236N, 084*43.623W, www.charitcreek.org ), where we stayed for one night before walking out to Pickett State Park along the Slave Falls Trail. If you don’t go to the lodge, there is a campsite at 36*32.608N, 084*40.675, just before you cross the bridge over the creek to continue down the John Muir Trail.

I hope this helps as you plan your trip.

[Flying Eagle]

Thanks for the additional information. I'm still trying to nail down when to go. Hoping to make that decision before the end of this year and send off some option dates to the others I'm inviting to go along. I'm leaning toward a spring hike, but also realize the likelihood of much rainy weather. When I was there two years ago a couple pretty wild thunder storms blew through soaking everything and making some trail exceedingly muddy. But you take what mother nature dishes out and enjoy the adventure.